“If you carry an act into this city, you need to carry it in heavy. Don’t waste any time with low cost shucks and misdemeanors. Go straight for the jugular. Get proper into felonies.”

It’s been greater than a half-century since Hunter S. Thompson went in quest of the American dream on his drug-addled, off-the-rails street journey to Las Vegas.

His 1971 guide, “Worry and Loathing in Las Vegas,” grew to become an important learn for generations of youngsters who have been simply beginning to query the world and got here to outline the desert playing mecca. The guide additionally gave beginning to a brand new literary kind, gonzo journalism, by which the reporter was a number one character — on this case a pill-popping, pot-smoking, tequila-swilling, acid-dropping “dope fiend” plunging headlong into the story.

Essentially the most enduring achievement of Mr. Thompson’s wealthy portfolio from the late Sixties and into the ’70s could be how he — regardless of the medicine or due to them — so aptly distilled what was taking place in the US, because the disillusionment from the failures of a counterculture motion had taken maintain like an iron glove across the throat.

Included in his catalog is a far much less remembered piece Mr. Thompson wrote a number of years later for Rolling Stone journal, “Worry and Loathing on the Tremendous Bowl,” the place he introduced his caustic eye to the game he cherished, utilizing the backdrop of the massive recreation to discover how the authoritarian strains that have been infecting politics had additionally poisoned soccer.

The story stemmed from an existential disaster, which arrived for Mr. Thompson when he got here to understand throughout an interview with Richard Nixon, whom he’d caricatured as a political monster lengthy earlier than Watergate, that they shared a typical trait — an obsession with soccer.

Now, all these years later, right here we’re this week in a spot that appeared unimaginable then and feels so excellent and inevitable now: Tremendous Bowl LVIII in Las Vegas.

The pairing of those transmogrified exemplars of American extra is primed for an assault on … what? the senses? decency? style? modesty? … No, these are lengthy gone.

So, too, is Mr. Thompson, who shot himself to loss of life in 2005 at age 67, abandoning his spouse, his son and a suicide word titled “Soccer Season Is Over.”

This appears like a second manufactured for him, as Las Vegas furthers the sharpening of its picture with the imprimatur of the N.F.L., which has made a seminal flip of its personal with a public embrace of the playing trade.

“It could have been attention-grabbing to see how Hunter would have written about this,” mentioned Douglas Brinkley, the historian who’s the literary executor of his works.

Las Vegas, he mentioned, “now not has the appeal of motorbike gangs, fringe gamblers and desert drifters. It’s this company zenith of mass consumerism run amok.”

He added: “The Tremendous Bowl is a TV business extravaganza, a retail mall arrange within the parking tons the place the sport is only one part. As a result of Hunter had realized the methods of the commerce — he was a sportswriter by coaching — he was completely suited to puncture the hypocrisies and the hype of the Tremendous Bowl.”

The 2 groups in Sunday’s recreation, the Kansas Metropolis Chiefs and the San Francisco 49ers, will not be absorbing Las Vegas in the way in which of most guests. They’re banned from casinos by the N.F.L. till Sunday evening, venturing close to the Strip solely from the consolation of the buses that shuttled them to a media occasion on Monday evening.

The Vegas-ized Tremendous Bowl occasion scene that kicked into overdrive on Friday will go on with out them.

“Clearly, there’s lots occurring,” mentioned Blake Bell, a good finish with the Chiefs. “However we don’t actually see it.”

The groups are sequestered about 20 miles east alongside the shores of Lake Las Vegas, a synthetic lake lined with faux-terra cotta resorts. To get there, you cross by means of the true Las Vegas: middle-class suburban tracts and mini-malls, then industrial zones, then blocks upon blocks of latest properties beneath building earlier than the street climbs into huge empty expanses of purple rock, given a richer hue in the previous couple of days’ persistent rain.

Turning again, Las Vegas is a glittering speck within the heart of an expansive, barren valley.

The Las Vegas that Mr. Thompson left behind additionally requires some squinting to see.

A lot of it’s gone. Circus Circus nonetheless exists, however it’s now not the place the place, as he wrote, you might wander in at any hour and see a gorilla splayed on a neon cross that immediately turns right into a pinwheel, spinning round above a bustling on line casino ground — the principle nerve of the American dream.

The on line casino the place Mr. Thompson discovered psychedelics virtually irrelevant now begs for anti-depressants. It’s the type of place the place room charges begin at $25, the pit boss’s swimsuit is three sizes too massive, and the air this week carried a scent of cigarettes, fragrance and despair.

A person named Daniel, along with his spouse and two youngsters tucked away of their room, sat vacantly at a slot machine late one evening on the Circus Circus on line casino ground nursing a beer and staring blankly throughout the room. He was down a pair hundred bucks, hoping his luck would flip.

Close by, a lady named Hazel, with faux Chinchilla boots and an obscene T-shirt that was far too small, lamented seeing a homeless lady win $500 after which proceed to faucet away on the identical machine till she was all the way down to 56 cents. “In the event you received numerous cash, you take pleasure in your self in Vegas,” she mentioned. “In the event you’re like me, with a pair hundred bucks, you’re right here.”

The scene was a little bit extra upbeat downtown, a number of miles north of the Strip. Alongside the Fremont Road pedestrian mall, beneath indicators that marketed a steak and lobster dinner for $13.99, pairs of flamingo ladies lingered of their flamboyant headdresses and lingerie, chatting up guys to have their image taken with them.

After a couple of minutes, one pair discovered a mark. First, they posed aspect by aspect, smiling coyly. Subsequent they draped a thigh throughout his lap. And for the coup de grâce, they pivoted, bent over and took a number of lashes with a leather-based flogger for the digicam.

When it was over, they instructed him the worth: $100.

He haggled it all the way down to $80.

The shakedowns take many types.

On the Strip, a bustling miles-long, neon mall, which attracts the opposite finish of the socio-economic spectrum, some costs are sufficient to make a Manhattanite blanch. A nine-ounce Japanese A5 Wagyu Ribeye units you again $560 on the Bellagio and a Fendi purse barely massive sufficient to carry a cellphone runs $4,400 at Aria. Any pocket change remaining could be blown on a $35 Excessive Curler Ferris wheel experience.

No person, although, has mastered the artwork of financial extraction just like the N.F.L.

Eight years in the past, it moved media day — when gamers and coaches from each groups are bombarded with principally foolish, banal or redundant questions from shops and different assorted consideration seekers — to prime time on Monday evening from Tuesday morning.

It’s now branded as Tremendous Bowl Opening Night time, broadcast by the NFL Community, sponsored by a sports activities drink firm and open to followers for $30. In the event you neglect headphones, you should purchase a set for $20 on the stadium’s bank card sponsored N.F.L. Store.

The N.F.L. introduced 23,823 followers attended Opening Night time, a report.

Tremendous Bowl VIII, which Mr. Thompson chronicled in 1974, could maintain a distinction all these years later as essentially the most boring. Miami floor out touchdowns on its first two possessions, pitched a shutout till late and throttled Minnesota, 24-7. Miami quarterback Bob Griese threw simply seven passes, finishing six, a report low for a successful quarterback that appears sure by no means to be damaged.

That’s an excellent place to start out when contemplating how a lot the N.F.L. has modified in 50 years. Patrick Mahomes, the superlative Kansas Metropolis quarterback, could full that many passes on his first drive Sunday.

One other is playing. In “Worry and Loathing on the Tremendous Bowl,” Mr. Thompson’s dispatch from the sport, he grabs any wager he can on Miami with different sportswriters, so sure is he that the Dolphins will win. The Vikings have been interminably uptight. Their coach, Bud Grant, Mr. Thompson wrote, “spent the week performing like a Marine Corps drill sergeant with a terminal case of the piles.”

When Mr. Thompson’s postgame chat with Miami proprietor Joe Robbie, whom he had recognized from the 1972 presidential marketing campaign, is interrupted by the author Larry Service provider handing him a $50 invoice, Mr. Thompson realizes this isn’t an excellent search for Mr. Robbie.

“The one factor worse than being seen with a recognized gambler is discovering your self within the white-light glare of a community TV digicam within the firm of an notorious drug abuser … ”

Now the N.F.L. has agreements with sports activities betting firms reportedly price almost $1 billion over 5 years, although betting on sports activities stays taboo for gamers and league staff. One group even has a sports activities guide inside its personal stadium. A billboard proclaims that Boyd is the official native on line casino of the Las Vegas Raiders.

When Mr. Thompson got down to doc the Nixonian similarities between politics and professional soccer, he unwittingly glimpsed at this time’s N.F.L., the place entry is restricted, interviews are stage managed and the times of reporters watching observe from the sideline — not to mention sharing a post-practice beer with gamers or coaches — are lengthy gone.

If Las Vegas’s picture has been remade as an leisure vacation spot, its progress has continued to be fueled by a renewable useful resource: Californians searching for cheaper properties and decrease taxes. However as a result of jobs in that trade tilt towards low expert — and the company on line casino earnings don’t stay in the neighborhood — incomes have largely stagnated over the past decade.

Nonetheless, the most recent waves have continued to diversify the town, making certain that Nevada is intently watched in election years, because it was throughout Tuesday’s major and in Thursday’s caucuses.

It was out into this world that Gregory A. Borchard, a professor at U.N.L.V., would ship his journalism college students, most of whom had grown up in Las Vegas, when he taught a category on “Worry and Loathing.” Their project: go discover the American dream.

“All people is aware of this drug guru mystique and so they rejoice it, however what they lose monitor of is the writing model,” Mr. Borchard mentioned. “It’s clear and pure. He was a hell of a wordsmith.”

Few books start with a sentence that higher informs the reader of the wild experience forward: “We have been someplace round Barstow on the sting of the desert when the medicine started to take maintain.” And few shut with a extra vivid summation of an unrepentant soul, bouncing right into a bar after a pair hits of amyl: “I felt like a monster reincarnation of Horatio Alger … A Man on the Transfer, and simply sick sufficient to be completely assured.”

Mr. Brinkley mentioned the way in which Mr. Thompson’s abilities as a classy political thinker, gumshoe reporter and deft author got here collectively in “Worry and Loathing” is its personal Horatio Alger up-from-his-bootstraps story.

However over time, the load of his masterpiece’s brilliance and his celeb as a persona author grew to become a millstone — that and the years of alcohol and drug use that wreaked havoc on his physique. To a school pupil who felt the siren name of journalism at a time when Watergate’s wake had not but receded, an early lesson on the folly of idol worship arrived my senior yr when Mr. Thompson spoke at my college. He spent a not-very-long interview mumbling incoherently.

“It will get laborious and tiring,” Mr. Brinkley mentioned, describing his good friend as a mensch and a storm who perpetually wanted work to fund his life-style.

“As he received older, the excellent news is Hunter had a particular model. It’s laborious to discover a voice and he did. Alternatively, folks wished Hunter Thompson attending the spectacle and it’s laborious to not repeat your self. You could be caught in your individual shadow.”

Again on Fremont Road, away from the soccer bubble and the Strip, a specter of the monster reincarnation of Horatio Alger appeared very a lot alive.

Milling about with Edward Scissorhands, Jack Sparrow, Willy Wonka and so most of the characters Johnny Depp has performed, there was Hunter S. Thompson himself: Hawaiian print shirt, Tilley hat, yellow tinted aviators and a cigarette holder — an inexpensive facsimile of Mr. Depp within the film model of “Worry and Loathing,” itself now greater than 25 years previous.

No low cost shucks or misdemeanors right here.

Certainly, having immersed himself in “Worry and Loathing,” he had achieved a deep character examine, having pushed in from Los Angeles with the trunk of his convertible loaded up with sufficient medicine to disable an elephant, dedicated unspeakable acts in Las Vegas and made a grim evaluation of the state of issues.

Um, sorry, dude.

“I do know nothing concerning the guide,” the impersonator mentioned.



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